Central America - Venture Magazine Issue #1 Pages 14-15
Holy Smoke!
A journey to Guatemala’s Lake Atitlan turns into an unexpected pilgrimage for Kyle Hofseth, in an encounter with an ancient idol.
Smoke blows blue through motionless lips. Maximon, this god I kneel before, stones me with his wooden gaze, burns my eyes with his wooden lungs, and dazzles me with unexpected intensity. I don’t make a habit out of kneeling to strange gods, but Maximon holds a peculiar sort of power.
The village of Santiago lies in a dense camouflage of foliage on the slopes of one of the many volcanoes that surrounds Lago De Atitlan, thought by the Mayans to be the umbilicus of the world. The deep waters of Lago De Atitlan swirl in distinct rivers of dark blues as the volcanoes rise sharply from the edges of its waters, shaking the earth with their unleashed molten angst more often than not. At the heart of these ancient beliefs lies the equally ancient god, Maximon.
From the moment I stepped off the rotting, vintage yacht that serves as a daily ferry to Santiago, Maximon’s name filled the air. Every boy in the village crowded on to the stilted, wavering docks, shouting, singing, or at the very least muttering, “Maximon, Maximon, Maximon!”
Despite my filthy pants, misshapen shirt, and a satchel that is older than I, it was obvious that I was the only tourist with a dollar on this ferry. So, with two hundred eyes on me, I passed out a hundred distracted “no gracias’s,” as I waded through the waist-high flurry of disappointed boy guides.
To escape the overwhelming attention, I feigned interest in a few booths on the beach that serve as a tourist’s market of generic “Guatemalan Souvenirs.” I had seen the fake jade statues and screen-printed “Gallo Cerveza” t-shirts too many times, but I always opt for the pressures of a sales person over the guilt of disappointed faces. And yet the boys' chant of, “Maximon, Maximon, Maximon,” rang in my ears. When one final guide, a straggler too late for the ferry’s arrival, awakened me from another tasteless tourist booth with “Maximon”, I succumbed to the inevitable.
Like me, his pants were filthy and his shirt was contorted with the heat and his mother’s infrequent scrubbing. We made an odd match walking through the narrow streets together. But as he pushed me out of the street just in time to let an oversized, silent truck streak by us in neutral down the rutted hill, I was choked with emotions that still swirl beyond my grasp.
We continued through a series of alleys, cinderblock bungalows, and small mountains of waste to the edge of the village in what felt like a circular manner. As I staggered through swarms of flies and sickly cowering canines, I wondered if we were really going in circles or could it be that the earth simply spins faster here, so near its origin? Then, suddenly, we were inside the humble temple without warning or sign.
Candles covered the floor, incense swung to a monotone chant, the Holy Virgin was recreated in ceramic on every side of me, and Christ lay in the corner in a glass coffin covered with flashing Christmas lights. Here is Maximon’s ever-presence. Here, in an anonymous dank cinderblock building I confronted an embodied wooden remnant of a people’s past struggling to survive and I was brought to my knees without knowing why.
Maximon wears a shimmering, lake-blue hat and matching cape. From his neck hangs a multitude of fiery neck-ties. Through the smoky dusk I could see my quetzals tucked between ties, a required worship gift. Quetzals: the national bird, noted for its long magical jade-green tail feathers. Quetzals: the inflated Guatemalan currency. These quetzals I pulled from a hidden pouch near my groin ironically add a distinct flash and pomp to the dead mahogany eyes of Maximon. Smoke swirls, lights flicker and fade, and I kneel until my ankles hurt, until my knees feel dull, and then an incalculable time longer. My young guide appears from nowhere, taps me on the shoulder, and whispers, “vamos.”
Disoriented in the bright light of a Guatemalan afternoon, I am led back to the tight-laid brick of the village square, worn smooth and slick with a thousand market days and a million bare and booted feet, and to the village church.
Its looming façade bleeds yellow plaster, tolls its brass bells high above the square and another evening mass has begun. Down the aisle a brightly adorned priest chants softly with the sway of his incense burner, ceramic santos line the walls, and an endless array of candles turn to liquid fire on the floor.
Absorbed again into the mystery, this time it is my wrist-watch reminding me, “vamos.” The ferry is about to leave. So in a flurry of sacrilege, I sprint down the aisle of the church, through the broken streets and on to the decks of the yacht just as the lines are untied. The children that frantically welcomed me with their cries of, “Maximon,” are not here to bid me farewell, and within a week I will forget the name of my guide who I think of so often.
Maximon, on the other hand, I will never forget. His gaze will always stone me, his smoke will always blind me, and his power will always command my knees to drop.
The Mystery of Maximon
The precise origins of Maximon are vague, but tradition has it that he was established as a “Great Grandfather” of the community whose task was to keep evil (as manifested by a great number of witches) away.
The effigy itself was created after the village Nahuales (shamans) consulted a tree called Tz’ajte’l, which agreed to help. His mask, carved from this tree, is adorned with brightly coloured clothes. He was given rings on his elbows so he could be tied up (“Maximon” means “the tied up one”), but he was released to deal with the witches.
Nowadays he resides in a private house, protected by two people, but is allowed out and publicly paraded during Holy Week. Worshippers offer money, spirits and cigars or cigarettes to gain his favour, and it is considered a serious omission to not present him with such a gift.
My Big 5
Kumuka tour leader Linda Corkery identifies five of her favourite places in Central America.
- Caye Caulker, Belize
Every time I step foot on this island I am overwhelmed by the smiles on the faces of the locals and the genuine happiness that floats among the people. The official motto, “Go slow”, describes the vibe perfectly. It is a true Caribbean experience.
Kicking off my shoes and strolling barefoot around the sandy streets, the smells from the BBQs make your mouth water and the Caribbean rum punch helps to get you into the relaxed atmosphere. The diving, sailing and snorkelling are some of the best I have experienced, and the anticipation of a visit by Cake Man – with his selection of fresh carrot cake, chocolate cheesecake brownies and key lime cake – should not be underestimated. - Oaxaca village tour, Mexico
Oaxaca is the cultural mecca of Mexico and the day trip to two Mayan villages is a must, for it offers an incredible look into Mayan culture. Visiting local families and sampling their freshly-made tortillas (cooked on a wood stove infront of you) and kicking a football around with the children allow an insight into a culture and a simple way of life where the family is one of the most important things. The local markets offer fruit, veg and clothes, and the spiritual feeling one gets when stepping into a church where shaman is still practiced is overwhelming, no matter what your religion.
The passion of the local guide Caesar makes you feel truly touched by an historical culture. - Finca Ixobel, Guatemala
This working eco-farm is a real gem, with a vibe that will stay with you long after you have left. It has something for everyone, from private rooms to tree houses and camping. You can find yourself a quiet place in a hammock by the swimming pond or partake in the many activities, like horse-riding, caving, nature walks and river-tubing.
One of the highlights is definitely the food: a selection of home-made delights, which makes you constantly think about your next meal–something you will hear people talking about further into your journey. The staff – a mix of locals and foreign volunteers – make you feel like part of their big family, and the nightly bar experience is one to remember as you attempt your best salsa moves and enjoy a spectacular fire show. - Bahia Majugual, Nicaragua
Nicaragua is an up-and-coming place for tourism, but for me kicking back at this beachside backpacker-style retreat is what the country is all about.
The dirt road leading the way still has a rugged feeling, like you are heading to find some undiscovered paradise. The most incredible beach is only metres from your tent, hammock or front door, and one of the best surfing beaches is only minutes away. You can kick back with a cold beer and watch the world go slowly by, soak up the rays or hit the beach with surfboard in hand.
After a long day the sunset blows you away with its array of colours, as it slowly melts into the horizon, offering endless photo opportunities. - Panajachel and Chichicastenango,
Guatemala
These places are every tourist’s dream. As you approach the town of ‘Pana’ on the narrow winding road, you get your first view of Lago Atitlan and the three giant volcanoes that rise above its waters. But it’s the locals going about their business, wearing traditional Mayan clothing, carrying baskets on their heads and setting up TVs on the side of the road during the World Cup, that make it worth visiting.
The market of ‘Chichi’ is unbelievable. You can buy anything from pigs, fresh flowers and toothpaste to a special Guatemalan bag, painting or table cloth, just to mention a few. You can lose yourself in the streets among all the colours, but usually your friends are easy to find as they tower above the local people.
The food section is also an array of colours and smells, some so overbearing that you have to walk away to resist the temptation!
Filing through the small market streets with locals carrying their chickens by the legs and leading their pigs to market is something really special. I love the smells, sounds, colours and the overall feeling that you get here.
KUMUKA'S CONNECTIONS
You won’t have to run the gauntlet of freelance small-boy
guides with Kumuka: our travellers always have skilled and
knowledgeable guides to make sure you see the best in your
own time. Guatemala features on our 11-day
Avenue of the Volcanos tour and the 13-day
Reef and Rainforest tour (both part of our fully-guided
local transport offerings). Lake
Atitlan is best visited on the Reef and Rainforest tour,
which starts in Playa del Carmen (Mexico) and ends in Antigua
(Guatemala).
FLIGHTCHECK:
We offer flights to Mexico from £350
return and Guatemala from £490 return.
